Five nights: Wednesday, May 23 to Monday, May 28
For some reason, my internal idea of Split was that of a small, ocean-side town. In reality, it’s the largest city on the Dalmatian coast and the second largest city in Croatia, after Zagreb. That said, we still treated it as a place to hang out and relax for five nights, which is pretty much what we did.
Our apartment was near the old-town area of Diocletian’s Palace. This is a pretty amazing UNESCO World Heritage site, the fairly intact remains of a Roman palace being used as a part of the living city. It is also located next to the Riva, a café-lined promenade that hugs the waterfront. The Riva was a great location for carrying out our lounging plans. Plus, we were there over the weekend and caught a few acts of live music, though they skewed towards 80’s covers (Scorpions, Billy Idol, The Cure).
For getting out and about, we spent one afternoon hiking west up Marjan hill. It was a pretty scenic track through a Mediterranean pine forest (with cacti), plus there were the occasional hermitages built into the sheer rock walls. The loop back to town runs along the coast and takes you by the villa of Croatian sculptor Ivan Meštrović. The gallery was very interesting, plus he also has an impressive sculpture outside the Split city walls of bishop Gregory of Nin.
Being on the water, we had to take a spin by a local beach. It was an easy walk down to Bačvice beach, which was quite scenic and looked like yet another great place to hang out and do nothing. And speaking of the water, our culinary focus has shifted to seafood (with the occasional ćevapčići thrown in). So far, we haven’t been disappointed and look forward to more great seafood as we head up the coast to Zadar.